If that's not enough take 3 or 4 from 10% 4000 up and 1 or 2 from 15% 4000 and up
If there is less engine braking or your just looking to smooth power look for the likely resulting jump in power from 5% throttle to 10% if it's bad take 2* from 10% throttle from 4000 up. Well unless you wanna smooth the tip in response. See if there is less engine braking, if not, forget about it you won't find anything. Try it and see if the engine braking is less, I'd say probably not. On yours is try to pull 5* out of the 0% throttle from 4000 up. I have quite a few more cells to work with on my ecu vs the hrc tuner my tables are 16x32 so there are many more low setting 2%, 4%,5%, 6%,8%,10% Smooths roll on response immensely on my bike. I did end up finding doing something like leaving 0% factory and pulling out 5* at 5%, 4* 10%, 3* 20%. My findings were reducing the 0% and not the 5% did not decrease enginebraking. Too early too much negative work (engine brake) and detonation, too late too much hydrocarbon and high exhaust gas temps. Side story Ignition timing is selected by timing peak cylinder pressure in the range of 10-15* after top dead center, but really by finding the best power setting on a dyno! How is it found when the output is 0 or more like negative like 6000rpm closed throttle? Well combined with the fueling that was picked for emission reasons, the timing was advanced as far as possible to get the most complete combustion, One school of thought is that you should reduce the part throttle ignition timing to 0-5% 5000 to review limiter, say it was like 35* at 100% and 45* at 0%, you can take 0% down to 35*, however I found that this didn't reduce engine braking much and created a pronounced jump in power when re opening the throttle similar to what I described with over fueling, also heavily decreased timing at part throttle raises exhaust temp and can raise coolant temp. Think about that range sort of like a pilot jet Honda has likely erred on the lean side for emmisions, you know not spitting hydrocarbons out the pipe, but not so lean to make NOX and lean pop, so its probably not that far off Once you have gotten there you have gone too far. So basically when you have gone too far 5% throttle doesn't exist but 10% still does and you can't get that ultra low power output.
#Honda ecu tuning crack#
In short to reduce engine braking add fuel in the aforementioned area in 5% increments try it, when its blubbering your about to go too far, when getting back on the throttle provides a delay and then a jump in power, like this "close throttle into corner - engine brake - crack throttle to coast - coast - crack throttle to begin power delivery - bike coasts instead of picking up - open throttle more - bike jumps to 10% output.
#Honda ecu tuning trial#
Even with the wideband o2 this is sort of trial and error.
#Honda ecu tuning full#
As far as i can tell you much fuel cools the chamber too much and essentially the plug and chamber is too cool when it's go time, and has trouble when you get back in the throttle, now with full fuel cut we get the chamber too cool with air, we need just the right amount to keep the chamber ready for optimal response when you tip the throttle. Either delays response feeding the throttle back in. You need to play with the fueling in that range, too lean it makes sharp pops, too much fuel and it blub blub bulbs.
Sounds odd, but the fuel pump regulator is not manifold referenced, so in reality it's probably closer than what the idle fuel volume is than not. Your fueling should be somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 of what the engine idles off of.
I could go on for days and dayz about what I learned. I've been tuning an Aprilia sxv550 for a few months via data logger, looking at wide band2 o2, exhaust temp, rpm, and Tps.